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  • Void left by Floyd

    image-14-for-keith-floyd-1943-2009-gallery-308322946Keith Floyd 1980's
    Void left by Floyd
     TV viewers and amateur cooks everywhere were morning the lose of TV chef Keith Floyd, who died on Monday. He was a trailblazer who took television cookery out of the studio and on location.   From fishing boats in rough seas to remote countryside vistas and even real restaurant kitchens Floyd's engaging style and sense of fun attracted huge television audiences.    There are many cookery shows on both sides of the Atlantic who regularly go trotting the globe thanks to Floyd.

    Keith Floyd published over 27 books in his career, including three in the last 12 months Floyd's China; Keith Floyd's Thai Food and A Splash and a Dash which was he's most recent.    He was equally prolific on Television presenting 19 TV series, which were phenomenally successful and still being televised throughout 40 countries world wide.

    Away from TV and the world of publishing Keith life was less successful having gone through 4 marriages and more than a few failed businesses, not to mention the legendary stories of his drinking.

    On hearing the sad news of Floyd's death many of today's TV chefs where quick to praise Keith's ability including Michelin starred TV chef Marco Pierre White who said "He had this great ability at the stove, great confidence. He was a natural cook. But his very special talent was he could articulate himself and deliver inspiration with words. He spoke in a way that everybody could understand. A little piece of Britain died yesterday which will never be replaced. He was an individual, he was a maverick, he was mercurial, he was magical, he was special, he was rare."  

    Having been out of England at the time of Keith's rise to fame I first saw one of his program's broadcast on a channel in the US and I found his style and enthusiasm very entertaining.    His first series Floyd on Fish was aired on the BBC in 1984 and his last series Floyd's India was made in 2001 so Floyd's TV career spanned 17 years which in itself is remarkable but what is even more so is how watchable all of his programs still are.    Cookery programs usually have the same length of shelf life as property programs and rarely get rebroadcast like many of Floyd's do and will continue to do so.

    Last year Keith performed in his sell out one man show in the Lake District where he told the enthusiastic audiences about his very colourful life in a very Keith Floyd way. He also found time in 2008 to open Floyd's Thai Restaurant in Phuket.

  • Kumquat Meringue Pie with Passion Fruit Couli© Kevin Ashton 2006

    Kumquat Meringue Pie

    Lots of chefs use kumquats just for decoration, because they don't seem to know how else to use them which a shame. Originally from China this oval shaped miniature type of orange is eaten whole. The rind is sweet and the juicy centre is sour and salty, the raw fruit is usually consumed either whole, to savour the contrast, or only the rind is eaten. The fruit is considered ripe when it reaches a yellowish-orange stage, and has just shed the last tint of green. The Hong Kong Kumquat has a rather sweet rind compared to the rinds of other citrus fruits.

    Culinary uses include: candying and kumquat preserves, marmalade, and jelly. Kumquats appear more commonly in the modern market as a martini garnish, replacing the classic olive. They can also be sliced and added to salads. A liqueur can also be made by macerating kumquats in vodka or other clear spirit. I seem to remember on Bermuda in my younger days enjoying some macerated kumquats.

    The Cantonese often preserve kumquats in salt or sugar. A batch of the fruit is buried in dry salt inside a glass jar. Over time, all the juice from the fruit is diffused into the salt. The fruit in the jar becomes shrunken, wrinkled, and dark brown in colour, and the salt combines with the juice to become dark brown brine. A few salted kumquats with a few teaspoons of the brine/juice may be mixed with hot water to make a remedy for sore throats.[citation needed] A jar of such preserved kumquats can last several years and still keep taste.

    After some thought I decided that cooked kumquats would make a delicious and different meringue pie.

    Ingredients
    1 x 25 cm fluted flan ring/dish
    400g (14oz) short crust pastry
    454g (1lb) kumquats
    200 grams (8oz) Caster sugar
    Juice of 1 large lemon
    3 large eggs (separated)
    3tbsp cornflower
    350ml (13floz) water
    1 Tbsp butter
    1 large ripe mango
    6 ripe passion fruit

    Method

    1. Lightly grease your flan ring or dish with butter and roll out the pastry no thicker than 4mm (1/5 inch) and line the dish or ring with the pastry.
    2. Prick the pastry with a fork then cover the circle of parchment paper that is slightly bigger than the dish.
    3. Weigh the paper down with raw rice or baking beads.
    4. Bake the pastry case (this method is called blind baking) in a pre-heated oven 190C/375F gas mark 5 until it is light straw colour (about 15 minutes).
    5. Remove the rice and parchment and bake for a further four minutes on a low shelf then allow to cool.
    6. Blanch the kumquats in boiling water for 2-3 minutes then drain. Combine with 60grams of caster sugar and the lemon juice and cook on a low heat until the kumquats are soft and translucent.
    7. Chop the kumquats in a food processor and set to one side.
    8. In a non-stick saucepan combine the water, cornflour,butter,and 80grams of caster sugar. Bring it slowly to the boil stirring constantly. When the mixture is thick and smooth turn the heat down to very low and whisk in the egg yolks one at a time.
    9. Remove from the heat and stir in the kumquat mix and allow to cool.
    10. When lukewarm pour the mix into the pastry case and set in the fridge.
    11. Scoop out the passion fruit and combine with the mango in a food processor and puree until smooth, then strain the sauce and refrigerate.
    12. In a clean large bowl whisk the egg whites until they are making soft peaks, then gradually add the remaining 60 grams. Whisk until the meringue is very stiff.
    13. When the kumquat mix is cold and set cover with the meringue and decorates by making some peaks with a dessertspoon.
    14. Glaze the meringue lightly under a hot grill for a few seconds to give some colour and serve on a pool of passion fruit couli.

    Chef's Tip
    Don't leave the meringue too long before you top the pie, by the time your meringue is made the kumquat mix should be cool enough.

  • World Championship Cookery

    Yes Chef Spring09edited

    I mentioned earlier this year I was writing several articles about the Pastry World Cup and the Bocuse D’or for various magazines on both sides of the Atlantic including the spring edition of Yes CHEF magazine. The Pastry World Cup and Bocuse D’or are held in Lyon every 2 years are considered the very best competitions in the world.

    Yes Chef magazine is a high quality glossy quarterly UK magazine aimed at both the catering industry and serious amateur cooks that want to keep up with trends and the happenings in the business. I also wanted to take this opportunity to say a special thanks to the Almond Board of California who were my hosts in Lyon and did a great job to make my trip a memorable one.

    I have reprinted my article below and hope you enjoy it.

    World Championship Cookery

    For any chef interested in achieving recognition, the Pastry World Cup and the Bocuse D'or are the most prestigious culinary competitions in the world. So much effort, skill and in some cases a year of practice have helped make these the ultimate prizes to win.

    Pastry World Cup
    Started in 1989 by French Master Pastry Chef Gabriel Paillasson, the Pastry World Cup is held once every two years in Lyon, at the Sirha Food show. The competition pits 22 country teams against each other for medals and trophies. Each team consists of three chefs who produce a chocolate dessert, a frozen dessert and a plated dessert, along with three sculptures crafted from sugar, chocolate and ice.

    Each country takes it in turn to bring their desserts out to great fanfare and huge media coverage.
    A team needs to produce two of each dish so that one can be available for the press to take 100's of photos and the second is sliced into portions and offered to the 22 judges.

    Bad luck turned the fortunes of the Dutch and American teams in separate instances. Team USA's 3 foot chocolate sculpture fell over when the team tried moving it in their overheated kitchen, just a mere 20 minutes before the end of the competition. A more dramatic calamity happened to the Netherlands sculpture when it collapsed from the display table and broke into a thousand pieces in front of the huge audience. Deafening silence fell upon the room as all eyes and TV cameras turned to the stunned Dutch team who could barely believe what had happened.

    The French team were clearly the favourites, ably led by their 23year old captain Jerome de Olveira, they showed nerves of steel and tremendous skill. I asked them if they felt additional pressure because France has won this competition so many times. With modesty they explained their focus didn't give them time to consider or worry about the history of the competition.

    When the judging was complete the French were indeed crowned Pastry Champions of the World, and watching the media frenzy I truly understood for the first time the importance of this competition.

    Bocuse D'or 2009
    Paul Bocuse is simply a living legend; perhaps the only other culinary legend he can truly be compared to is Escoffier. Both coming into the kitchen at a time of stagnation in professional cookery, that was deep on traditional but had lost its way.
    Like Escoffier, Bocuse has been a trailblazer, changing and reinvigorating French Cuisine throughout his career in so many ways. "Monsieur Paul" as he is often called in reverent tones in France won his first Michelin star in 1958 and many accolades since. His 3star restaurant on the outskirts of Lyon is truly the culinary epicentre of France.

    Just like the Pastry World Cup that precedes it the Bocuse D'or is held biannually at the Sirha Food show and 2009 saw 24 countries represented in the final, which is held over a two-day period.

    Simon Hulstone, winner of the Knorr National Chef of the Year and chef patron at the Michelin starred Elephant restaurant in Torquay represented the UK. This was Simon?s first attempt at the Bocuse D'or and his finished in a respectable 10th place, which gives you some idea of the quality and difficulty of the world's ultimate cookery competition.

    Simon was coached and mentored by Chef Brian Turner CBE who often gives his free time and expertise to help UK chefs prepare for this crème de la crème of competitions. Brian was also invited this year to be one of the 24 chef judges because he is fluent in French.

    Brian Turner said, "Analysing the winning entrants and learning what the judges are looking for is as important as the cooking and presentation skills."
    When I asked him how we could improve the UK's chances for the next Bocuse D'or in 2011 he said, "We need to get sponsorship or government funds to put our chefs on equal footing with other countries. Perennial winners such as Norway and France understand the huge benefit and culinary prestige to their tourism industry."
    I guess the big question is do we have the desire to place ourselves in a winning position?

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  • Tip Of The Week- Licorice-Liquorice

    We all have food memories from our childhood; they can be some of our most evocative glimpses of our young lives. I'd like to share one of mine with you; perhaps for some readers it will remind you of your own.

     

    Growing up my parents didn't have a lot of money but we did get a weekly allowance (pocket money). Some of that money we would be encouraged to save for our summer holidays, but we were allowed to spend a small amount on sweets (candy).  Sometimes a short walk home from school would mean a stop at the little corner store to buy a few pennies worth of sweets.  Back then the shopkeeper had a section of his counter that was both accessible to small children but also accessible in price.  Amongst the teeth breaking mojo chews and the sherbet filled flying saucers were the "crown jewels" of cheap sweets penny sticks of liquorice and if you were careful and savoured them they would last you all the way home.

     

    As I have mentioned before I get sent a wide range of products to try, the manufacturers and PR people hoping I will give it the thumbs up are often disappointed.  My policy has always been if I can't find something good to say about the product then I prefer to say nothing. 

     Just occasionally I find something of real quality and feel compelled to share it with you and perhaps tell you a few fascinating facts you never heard before.

    Panda Licorice, made in Finland not only tastes delicious but is also 100% all natural.  Made the same way since 1927 from just 4 ingredients of Molasses syrup, wheat flour, licorice extract and aniseed oil, with no preservatives, no artificial colours or flavours. It is good to see a product that I didn't either need a degree in chemistry or a magnifying glass to read the packet.


    Real licorice flavour comes from underneath the ground Licorice comes from the root of the blue flowering pea plant which is found growing wild all over Southern Europe and Asia. The plant's botanical name is glycyrrhiza glabra, which means sweet root.

    History

    The therapeutic use of licorice dates back thousands of years to the Greek and Roman Empires. The Greek physician Hippocrates (460 BC) and botanist Theophratus (371 BC) extolled its uses, and Roman naturalist Pliny the Elder (23 AD) recommended it as an expectorant and carminative. Licorice also figures prominently in Chinese herbal medicine


    Liquorice root has an impressive list of well-documented uses and is probably one of the most over-looked of all herbal remedies. It is used for many ailments including asthma, athlete's foot, baldness, body odour, bursitis, canker sores, chronic fatigue, depression, colds and flu, coughs, dandruff, emphysema, gingivitis and tooth decay, gout, heartburn, HIV, viral infections, fungal infections, ulcers, liver problems, Lyme disease, menopause, psoriasis, shingles, sore throat, tendonitis, tuberculosis, ulcers, yeast infections, prostate enlargement and arthritis.

    Hundreds of potentially healing substances have been identified in liquorice as well, including compounds called flavonoids and various plant estrogens (phytoestrogens). The herb's key therapeutic compound, glycyrrhizin (which is 50 times sweeter than sugar) exerts numerous beneficial effects on the body, making liquorice a valuable herb for treating a host of ailments. It seems to prevent the breakdown of adrenal hormones such as cortisol (the body's primary stress-fighting adrenal hormone), making these hormones more available to the body

     

    In recent times science has been re-discovering the health benefits of liquorice. Licorice is in fact a powerful antiviral that contains 10 antioxidants, at least 25 fungicidal and 9 expectorant compounds. Licorice also includes MAO inhibitors, several XO inhibitors, and natural estrogenic ingredients. But this is not all that helps to form licorice. Licorice is also made up of beneficial components such as phytochemicals, magnesium, and sodium.

    • Peptic Ulcers: Licorice is used in Europe as medicinal support for people suffering from ulcers. Scientific studies have also shown that licorice is very effective as a pharmaceutical drug when it comes to treating peptic ulcers. A special form of licorice known as DGL is the preferred treatment for ulcers; this form removes the glycyrrhizin from the licorice as this can cause high blood pressure. DGL has no side effects and is the inexpensive option when compared with drugs such as Tagomet and Zantac.
    • HIV infection: Research has shown that the benefits of licorice can also be used in HIV related diseases. Licorice helps to slow the progression of HIV to AIDS and clinical studies carried out showed that licorice was able to slow HIV reproduction in test tubes. As you know the HIV virus targets the body's immune system and destroys white blood cells. Licorice helps to trigger the chemical compound interferon which is the body's virus fighting agent.
    • Skin Problems: The health benefits of licorice also extend to internal and external skin diseases. Licorice has similar effects to hydrocortisone when applied topically and can be used to help fight dermatitis, eczema, and psoriasis. Licorice can also be used to help speed up the healing process of cold sores and has also been known to reduce the pain associated with cold sores.
    • Hepatitis: Research indicates that the use of Licorice can be effective in treating both chronic and acute hepatitis. The compound glycyrrhizin in licorice is used clinically in Japan was found to be an efficient treatment in both hepatitis B and hepatitis C patients. Licorice was as effective as alpha-interferon and it did not cause the side effects associated with alpha-interferon.
    • PMS: Licorice has a mild estrogenic effect. A high estrogen level can cause many menstrual problems; licorice may help to balance the estrogen levels in the body by reducing estrogen.
    • Respiratory System: It has always been common practice to use licorice in the treatment of severe respiratory problems such as coughing, asthma, sore throats, and bronchitis and modern research confirms these health benefits of licorice.
    • Chronic Fatigue Syndrome: It is not possible to combat the effects of stress without having healthy functioning adrenal glands. Licorice supports the adrenal glands and its compound glycyrrhizic helps to block the breakdown of cortisol which in turn raises cortisol levels helping the body to fight against stress and chronic fatigue syndrome.

     Licorice Side Effects

    Licorice can raise blood pressure, so I do advise people who suffer from high blood not to consume licorice. Consumption during pregnancy is also not advised.

     

    Interesting facts

    Most licorice candy in the United States is actually flavored with anise, not licorice so be sure what you buy has real extract of licorice in it.

     

    Celebrity licorice devotees include Tom Hanks, Lindsay Lohan, Brad Pitt, Anne Hathaway, Kevin Spacey, Madonna
    and TV chef Heston Blumenthal

     

    Napoleon is said to have loved licorice and used it to calm his nerves before a battle.

     

    Tutankhamun could rest in peace in his burial chamber because he was accompanied by a jar of licorice.

     

    The Shoe that Charlie Chaplin famously ate in the legendary silent movie The Tramp was made of licorice.

     

    In Pontefract, West Yorkshire, in July, you will find the annual Licorice Carnival. There is even a licorice queen crowned with a licorice crown. She will wear licorice clothes and bedazzle visitors with licorice jewels. You can buy a licorice plant to take home with you.

     

    In the Lord of the Rings movie trilogy the Orcs have black blood, so it was only natural that the inside of their mouths should not be pink but black as well. To achieve this, the Orc actors had to swill a licorice based mouthwash prior to each of their scenes.

     

    In the James Bond movie Moonraker, where villain "Jaws" bites the cable car line, it was actually made of licorice!

     

      

    It's called Panda Licorice because licorice roots are a real panda's favourite snack.

     

    LG New 32g Bar 3D Visual Dec 08

  • Monkfish chunks cooked with Onions, Peppers and Sherry by Mitch Tonks

    Tonks003-098_copy_copy

    As promised here is a sample recipe from Mitch Tonks wonderful new cookbook Fish
    His recipes are easy to follow and will produce delicious results!
    I'd like to say a special thank you to Mitch and his PR team for being so helpful.
    If you missed my review of his book yesterday, just scroll down.

    Monkfish Chunks cooked with Onions, Peppers and Sherry by Mitch Tonks

    I love the cooking of Spain and Italy; in fact they have to be my favourite places to eat seafood. I think it’s the simplicity of the dishes and that complete understanding they have when it comes to cooking fish that makes it so special – they just don’t mess about with it. I ate a dish similar to this one in the excellent Café Belaer in Cuitadella on the island of Menorca. One of the other specialities was a local lobster cooked in sherry with plenty of onions; it was delicious, especially served with a bottle of Dom Pérignon champagne!

    Serves 4

    25 g/1 oz/2 tbsp butter
    100 ml/3 fl oz/generous 1⁄3 cup olive oil
    2 large onions, finely sliced
    1 red pepper, deseeded and cut into 2.5 cm/1 inch pieces
    1 green pepper, deseeded and cut into 2.5 cm/1 inch pieces
    6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
    Good pinch of saffron strands
    400 ml/14 fl oz/13⁄4 cups dry sherry, such as Manzanilla or fino
    750 g/1 lb 10 oz monkfish, cut into 4 cm/11⁄2 inch chunks
    200 g/7 oz fresh palourde or venus clams or live mussels, cleaned and beards removed (optional)
    Handful of fresh parsley, finely chopped
    Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

    At the fishmonger
    Ask your fishmonger to fillet the monkfish and remove the skin and membrane.

    Heat the butter and olive oil together in a large heavy-based frying pan, add the onions, peppers, garlic and saffron and cook very slowly over a low heat for about 25 minutes until the onions are soft, light golden and nearly melted. You do not want any of the onions to be tinged by hot frying, as this will change the taste. This part is the most important part of the dish.

    Add the sherry and monkfish, then cover with a lid and simmer gently for 10–12 minutes or until the fish is just cooked. If your fishmonger has a handful of clams or mussels, they are very good added 5 minutes before the end of the cooking time, but are not essential.

    Add the parsley to the pan and season with salt and pepper, then serve.

    This dish is great served with chicory that has been brushed with oil, seasoned with salt and lightly grilled – the enjoyable bitterness of the chicory works well with the sweetness of this dish.

  • Book Review: Fish the complete fish & seafood companion by Mitch Tonks

    Front cover

    In my 30 plus years as a chef I have never found such a useful and interesting seafood book as Fish written by Mitch Tonks.

    It clearly gives the reader sound advice (with pictures) on how to buy and cook seafood with confidence making it a must buy for home-cooks and chefs alike.

    It goes on to explain good cooking techniques, tackles the issue of sustainability with knowledge and sensible advice explaining how our choices can influence and encourage good practice throughout the seafood industry.

    About the author
    Mitch started his love affair with seafood as a young boy fishing on the beaches of Somerset and Cornwall, taking his catch to his grandma’s to cook for his tea.
    His love for seafood turned him into an award winning fishmonger and then chef who still gets a buzz from his early morning visits to the fish market.

    Mitch_Photo

    Founder of his chain of fishmonger stores Fishworks, Mitch went on to become chef owner of The Seahorse restaurant in the fishing port of Dartmouth, Devon.
    Voted Tatler’s Restauranteur of the year, Mitch’s expertise is now propelling him more and more onto UK TV screens, including his new series with Matt Dawson called Mitch and Matt’s Big Fish.

    The Book
    Although this book is primarily written for a European audience it has much to commend it and be useful to the wider world.

    A species-by-species breakdown which gives easy to understand information that includes when they are in season, sustainability,environmental issues and a beautiful photograph of each fish. Other useful information includes nutrition and yield guidelines to help you purchase the right amount. Mitch even includes the various European names for each species, which is useful when on holiday.

    Mitch Tonks enthusiasm and knowledge shines through the pages to make the reader more confident about buying and cooking seafood. Packed with 100 simple yet delicious recipes that are well illustrated by the stunning photography of Chris Terry.

    Fish is enormously well researched, and yet it's Mitch's down to earth manner and the book's seafairing anecdotes that make it a fascinating read. The well thought out template of the book will definately make this a classic that future seafood books will be measured by.

    With Mitch’s kind permission I will be posting a recipe from the book tomorrow
    Here is a link to Mitch's site
    http://www.mitchtonks.co.uk/

  • What's it like to be a Chef? part 2

    royal show4 2007

    Answering the question “What is it like to be a chef?
    Is one I am asked quite often and a question that is a complex one to answer.
    I have written on this subject before and will post a link at the bottom of this piece,
    for those interested in reading more.

    Someone wrote to me recently and asked this question……..

    “I recently discovered your website (and will be trying your polenta mash!) and hoped maybe you could offer some advice, since I do not know any chefs personally.

    I'm 24 and studying for a masters but am not enjoying my course at all. I've been considering the idea of working as a chef but have one major concern.

    I am incredibly shy and am worried this will impact on my ambition to working in a kitchen professionally. I am never going to be outgoing, or forceful in nature but I am prepared to work hard and do the long hours.

    Do chef positions generally attract more outgoing people or can someone who is particularly quiet survive in the kitchen?”

    My Answer
    Unfortunately there are kitchens and chefs out there who believe that high quality and macho unfriendly working environment go hand in hand, but I disagree…
    Being a chef is tough enough due to the hours, heat, and danger and often lack of equipment. The problem is that if a high profile chef has come up through the ranks
    being kicked and treated like dirt, there is a great tendency for him to run his kitchen using the same methods.

    When I have run various kitchens I have always tried to encourage creativity and discourage bullying, but some people find it hard to change and I have found some chefs thinking I’m soft because I did not rule through intimidation.

    Since no two kitchens are alike it is hard to generalise, but my advice would be to find a local quality restaurant preferably a small one, which may be a friendlier environment to test the waters. You didn’t mention whether you intend to take any formal culinary course but I think it is important for you to first establish if working in a kitchen is for you or not.

    Things to think about
    Being a chef will usually make you more outgoing and perhaps more confident.
    Due to the long hours most chefs work you do tend to become familiar with your co-workers more quickly than most other trades. Camaraderie and even a sense of family can spring up in some kitchens.

    Being a chef is definitely a labour of love; it can be very creatively satisfying but can carry a very high price, and a price that many people at one stage or another decide is too high.

    It can be tough on personal relationships, and I have always found it hard to sustain a relationship with a woman who has a 9-5 job, after a while she can get bored sitting at home waiting for you. The stresses and strains can hurt your health if you are not careful you can fall foul to alcoholism and drug abuse.

    Whilst you can make good money in the food business please remember that most people don’t and that is part of the reason eating out in relatively cheap in most restaurants. Staff can be dismissed for the flimsiest of reasons or because the restaurant changed hands, which maybe no reflection of your skill or dedication but can definitely dent your self-esteem.

    On the Upside
    I am just an ordinary working class lad, who because of cooking has travelled and worked in various countries around the world. I have cooked and shared my passion through various food shows to audiences on both sides of the Atlantic. I have met and cooked for many famous people that most people only dream about, whatever else my life has never, ever been boring.

    Here is a link to an earlier blog I did on the subject
    http://wannabetvchef.blog.co.uk/2006/04/24/answering_the_question_what_s_it_like_be~752141/

    My Life-Update March 2009
    My Life update March 2009
    In my last update in February, I said I expected to pass the 1 million page-view mark in the next couple of months but my prediction was out by several months because my current number of page-views is 1,229,069…..amazing and thank you!
    My blog is now getting a daily average of 1,098 visitors per day, and in the last 30 days I have had a total of just over 31,530 so thank you!

    Toronto_skyline_tommythompsonpark_cropped
    Off to Toronto
    Tomorrow I am flying off to the fair city of Toronto in Canada at the invitation of Tourism Toronto. They have planned 5 action packed days for myself and seven other food writers from the UK and Spain. I will definitely be sharing my insights of this wonderful city with you all on my return.

    image002
    Up Next- another book review
    Amongst the things I am currently working on is my next book review, a book with the simple title of Fish by Mitch Tonks. Mitch a passionate fishmonger who went onto become an awardwinning chef and restaurateur so watch this space.

  • White Chocolate Cake with Roasted Peaches (serves 6)© Kevin Ashton 2008

    White Chocolate Cake with Roasted Peaches

    I wanted to combine peaches and chocolate in a dessert, but felt dark chocolate would be too bitter and milk chocolate would simply not work. I reasoned if I were careful to make sure neither the white chocolate filling nor the peaches were too sweet I would have a winner. So give it a try and let me know what you think.

    Ingredients
    4 Ripe peaches
    150g (6oz) S.R. flour
    175g (4oz) Caster sugar
    100g (4oz) Unsalted butter
    2 Large eggs
    1 vanilla pod
    ½ teaspoon baking power
    250ml (½ pint) W.cream
    2 egg yokes
    200g (8oz) white chocolate
    1 dessertspoon vodka*

    1.)Preheat oven to 230 C gas mark 6 and grease and flour two 7inch cake tins.
    Cream 100g (4oz) butter with sugar and add the seeds from half of the vanilla pod.
    When the mixture is very light and fluffy gradually beat in the eggs, a little at a time.
    2.)Now whisk in 50g (2oz) grated white chocolate.

    3.)Sift the flour together with the baking power and fold the flour in with a spatula, being careful not to knock all the air out. Divide the mixture between the cake tins and bake on the middle shelf for 12-15 minutes. Turn out the cake layers on to a wire rack and allow to cool.

    4.)Cut the peaches in half and remove the stones, sprinkle with a teaspoon of sugar then bake cut side down at the bottom of the oven until tender (about 30 minutes), when the peaches are cool cut each half in two.

    5.)Heat 150ml of the cream in a non-stick saucepan together the remaining seeds from the vanilla pod. Whisk the hot cream into the eggs yolks then return to a clean pan and cook carefully, stirring constantly over a medium heat until its coats the back of your spoon.

    6.)Transfer the mixture to a bowl, and whisk in 150g (6oz) of melted white chocolate (melt the chocolate carefully using short 20 second bursts in the microwave). Whilst the mixture is still warm whisk in 75g (3oz) of softened butter a little at a time and the vodka.
    Separately whisk the remaining whipping cream and fold in when the chocolate mixture is cold.

    To assemble
    Spread just over half the chocolate mix onto one of the cake layers then top with the other. As neatly as you can spread the remaining chocolate mixture on the top of the cake and then decorate with the roasted peaches.

    Chef’s Tip
    If you don’t have two 7” cake tins you could use one larger cake as I have done in the photo. I also choose to spread all of the chocolate mix on top of the cake, rather than making in a sandwich. The purpose of the *vodka is to cut the richness of the chocolate but you can leave it out if you wish.

  • Chicken with Pasta and Pesto Sauce (serves2-3) © Kevin Ashton 2008

    chicken and pasta with pesto sauce 2

    During the warmer months I grow 1-2 basil plants in my kitchen window. I just buy a living plant from the supermarket and with a little love it grows and grows and gives me enough basil for most of the year. In fact my basil was getting far too big for my window ledge so I decided it was time to make some home-made pesto, it's easier than you think. You can half the pesto recipe if you wish.

    Homemade Basil Pesto
    100g (4oz) Large unbruised Basil Leaves
    50g (2oz) lightly toasted pine nuts
    75g (3oz) Grated fresh parmesan cheese
    1 clove garlic roughly chopped
    200ml extra virgin olive oil
    Chicken and Pasta
    2 x 150g (6oz) Chicken breasts skin on
    100ml (3floz) whipping cream
    50ml white wine
    300g pack of Sun-dried tomato tortellini
    2Tsb Olive oil

    1. In a large mortar and pestle, grind up the pine nuts and the garlic until you have smooth paste.
    2. Then slowly add a few basil leaves at a time and pound them into a silky smooth mixture.
    3. At this point we are going to transfer the mixture to my food processor to finish the pesto off.
    4. Of course we could have done the whole process in the food processor but we would never get it as smooth that way. Using this old fashioned method it also bring out a richer greener colour.
    5. Add the parmesan cheese on a high speed; then begin drizzling in the olive oil on a lower speed, a little at a time. When you have finished adding all of the oil your pesto should be quite thick and season lightly.
    6. Preheat your oven to 200 C gas mark 5
    7. *Remove the skin from each breast in one piece and rub with olive oil, then lay the skins stretched out on a non stick baking tray season and the place another same size tray on top of it.
    8. Bake the chicken skin between the two trays which keeps it flat for 15-20 minutes; then check if it is brown, if not remove the tray and cook for a few minutes more then remove from the oven.
    9. Cut the breasts into even sized pieces and cook in a hot sauté pan with 1 Tbsp of olive oil.
    10. When cooked remove the chicken and keep warm.
    11. Deglaze the pan with the white wine, turn the heat down to low and add the cream, 2-3 Tbsp of pesto and stir.
    12. Cook the pasta in boiling salted water per instructions and drain well.

    To Serve
    Stir the drained pasta into your sauce check the seasoning and spoon into pasta bowls.
    Top with the pieces of chicken and cut the crispy skins into triangular "shards" and decorate.

    Chef?s Tips
    Spoon the pesto into a re-sealable glass jar and refrigerate.
    Some times I thin the pesto down further with more olive oil, then I can pour into a salad oil bottle and use it as a salad dressing. The chicken skin is optional but it does add a great contrast of texture and taste to the dish. You can of course buy your own pesto if you don?t have time to make one.
    I chose to put a white in the sauce for it's acidity but I think a tasty chilled blush wine to drink with this dish will compliment the sun-dried tomatoes in the pasta.
    As you may notice I also slow roasted some baby plum tomatoes to add an extra finishing touch.

  • My Life-Update February 2009

    My Life-Update
    The numbers of readers to this blog continue to grow and this week we past the 1,000 visitors mark on three separate days and my daily average now stands at 1,017.
    With my total page-views racing ahead (as of today now standing at 785,243)
    it looks as if I will break the 1 million mark in the next 3 months…so a big thank you for all of your support.

    Brian Turner-edited
    My second chat with Brian Turner
    This morning I was having a chat with TV Celebrity Chef Brian Turner CBE, about
    his part in a top culinary competition called the Bocuse D’or, which took place in Lyon, France in January. Brian has regularly given his free time and expertise to help UK chefs prepare for this crème de la crème of competitions and was also invited this year to be one of the 24 chef judges. Brian also works tirelessly to promote and encourage youngsters who want to get into the catering business through various non-profit schemes including UK Skills, of which he is a board member.
    http://www.brianturneronline.co.uk/biography.aspx

    fond_top
    Bocuse D’or 2009
    Just like the Pastry World Cup this premier culinary event is held biannually at the Sirha Food show in Lyon. 2009 saw 24 countries represented in the final which is held over a two day period. Simon Hulstone, winner of the Knorr National Chef of the Year and chef patron at the Michelin starred Elephant restaurant in Torquay represented the UK so if you want to find out more about the competition and how Simon did you will have to read my article when it comes out.

    This competition was created 22 years ago by the living legend Chef Paul Bocuse who can best be compared to Escoffier who also was a trailblazer changing and reinvigorating his profession throughout his career in so many ways. "Monsieur Paul" as he is often called in reverent tones in catering circles in France won his first Michelin star in 1958 and many accolades since his 3star restaurant on the outskirts of Lyon is truly the culinary epicentre of France.

    Yes Chef-edited
    Yes Chef magazine
    I’m currently working on an article about the Bocuse D’or for the spring edition of a new quarterly magazine called Yes Chef. This glossy high quality magazine is like no other because it bridges the divide between the food professional and the food enthusiast. Speaking from a chef’s point of view the UK has long needed a cutting edge publication to match the artistic movement of what’s going on in the industry. Likewise for the food enthusiast who wants to know more about the latest food trends from a truly professional source and learn how to re-create them you should definitely check this magazine out.
    http://www.yeschefmagazine.com/

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